Wednesday, 22 February 2012

1661 Poitín

Let's cut to the chase, because time is short: if you want to help resurrect the traditional Irish spirit known as poitín, you can kick a few bucks into the 1661 Poitín venture on Kickstarter. Only five days remain for this project to meet its funding requirement, so don't tarry!

Poitín (or poteen) is the other great Irish spirit, a sort of a democratic version of whiskey. It is made in much the same way but typically at a much smaller scale and with, let's say, less of the fuss of taxes and regulations. It was outlawed in Ireland in 1661 (hence the name of the new drink), its good name only fully restored in 1997. Fortunately there were plenty of, ah, hobbyist craftspeople who kept the knowledge of making this artisan product alive in the wilder parts of the country.

We haven't seen much poitín on the shop shelves yet though. There are a couple of brands but we don't really know what's in them and I don't know who drinks them. Cooley made a much bigger splash recently with a single pot still version. While the illicit sort of poitín might include potatoes and sugar in its recipe, I imagine future commercial bottlings will stick to grain spirit, ie unmatured whiskey. There is no legal definition that I know of but "Irish poitín" is a protected EU geographical indication (it's listed under "other spirits").



This 1661 Poitín is made entirely from malted barley. Although it's not in production, test batches have been made, tasted and refined until it's as good as it can be. I've never come across any moonshine in Ireland (we are very law-abiding in Dublin!) but I've sampled new spirit from various distilleries, as well as the existing commercial poitíns. The aroma can be quite spectacular and entirely unlike whiskey. It could be bananas and pears or something more floral. The taste is a bit less familiar but can be herbal or porridgey. There is plenty of variation possible depending on the still and the grain mash so I believe a carefully tuned recipe could be delicious.

The particular distiller involved is a secret. Although there are photos of Kilbeggan distillery on the Kickstarter page, these are for illustration only; it is not being made there. I'm guessing it's not being produced by Cooley at all, and the other two whiskey distillers don't do projects like this. So is it one of the brewers said to be setting up distilling capacity in Kerry? It would make a lot of sense for a new whiskey distillery to sell some of its spirit straight away rather than wait five years or more for some decent whiskey to mature.

Ashlee Casserly, the prime mover behind this venture, has framed the project as bringing poitín to the United States. It's more than that though. The category needs to be revived in Ireland too. It's hard enough to get Irish people to try whiskey, let alone something which has the reputation of causing blindness and death (due to low quality backyard distillation). There is no reason poitín can't be a successful drink - neat, mixed or in a cocktail. It's no worse than vodka or the Chinese bai jiu (unmatured rice spirit) that the drinks majors are so excited by these days. Plenty of nations have developed a taste for unaged, strongly-flavoured spirit.

I would love to see 1661 Poitín come to life. Ashlee Casserly seems to have got everything in place to make that happen, bar the initial funding. I've seen other Kickstarter projects that pre-sell a product but I suspect that can't happen in this case because of strict rules regarding the flogging alcohol. There are lots of other perks for becoming a project supporter, however, so check it out and perhaps help to reintroduce the Irish and the world to a great traditional taste of Ireland.

Wednesday, 15 February 2012

Longueville House Irish Apple Brandy

Updated 21 Feb 2012: Added pricing and a little more info about the pot stills.



Only two months ago we were watching the US flag being hoisted above the last Irish-owned whiskey distillery. While that will no doubt lead to good things, we were also scanning the horizon hopefully for a new boutique distillery, just to keep the Irish in the game.

As it happens, such a craft distillery has been operating quietly under the radar since 2000, at Longueville House in Mallow, Co. Cork. It's not making whiskey but another brown spirit: brandy. Apple brandy, in fact.


The story begins with the late Michael O'Callaghan who grew grapes and produced wine on the 500-acre Longueville House estate. That proved tricky in the south of Ireland so he eventually planted 20 acres of Dabinette and Michelin cider apples in 2000.

The apples are harvested in the autumn every year, and crushed and pressed in an oak cider press on the farm. The pressed juice is naturally fermented over time, resulting in a rich amber-coloured cider.

This cider is double-distilled in three German-made copper pot stills (you can see them in the photo below). All three stills are used for the first distillation, and again for the second distillation. The resulting spirit is stored in French oak barrels for four years to mature. Bottled at 40%, it's vintage labelled with the year of distillation (which suggests the brandy might vary from harvest to harvest). About 1,000 bottles a year are now produced by Michael's son, William, who took over the business.

It's all very similar to the whiskey-making process from fermentation to the time in cask (whiskey is minimum 3 years). Only the source of sugars for fermenting is different - apples instead of grain.

A slight variation, too, is that Irish whiskey is typically aged in casks that have been used elsewhere first, for bourbon or sherry, say. Longueville's French casks were new when first filled with the apple spirit.

Dan Duggan in the still room at Longueville [vidcap from a video by Gavin Frankel]

So how is it? (I owe a special thanks to chef Rozanne Stevens at this point for conveying a bottle from Longueville to Dublin so I could sample it.) The nose is like a slightly leathery port. The taste is salty butter, nutmeggy apple pie and a touch of aniseed. I'm getting a nice hit of strawberry jam on the finish.

The spirit has mellowed perfectly after its four years in oak while the wood has not yet had a chance to overwhelm. It's really delicious. Speaking as a whiskey drinker, unschooled in brandy appreciation, I'd be very happy to drink this neat any time.

Besides straight up, Longueville has this serving suggestion:
Add some ice, fresh apple juice, soda water & fresh mint to a shot of brandy for a long cooling cocktail during the warm days of summer.
They also mention substituting brandy for whiskey in an Irish coffee. I saw exactly this suggested in the Wall Street Journal recently. Use an Irish apple brandy and you can still call it Irish coffee, I reckon.

A shot of brandy in a mulled cider makes a wonderful hot drink too. You can use Longueville's own cider for that, for it's not all diverted to brandy production. It is bottled without colourings, additives or preservatives.

As if cider and brandy weren't enough, they also make infused liqueurs. A variety of fruits grown in their walled garden and on the hedgerows surrounding the farm are combined with sugar and brandy. After a period of time and three separate strainings through muslin cloth, the "Garden Berry Liqueurs" are ready for bottling. Flavours vary from year to year and include pear, blackcurrant, strawberry, raspberry, redcurrant, mint and wild plum.

It's an amazing operation, isn't it? All the raw ingredients are grown and processed on site in true artisan fashion. And I haven't even mentioned the fine dining and various other activities available at Longueville House. They are setting a very high bar that new whiskey distilleries will struggle to match. They can count me as a fan, and though it's technically outside the scope of a whiskey blog, I'll be following the Longueville Apple Brandy story closely.

It's available, by the way, in Redmonds Off Licence in Ranelagh, Dublin, and in Bradley's Off Licence, North Main Street, Cork. It should be stocked in more outlets soon. The recommended selling price is €35 for a 500ml bottle.

Monday, 13 February 2012

Distillery of the Year

Midleton has garnered the very handsome accolade of Distillery of the Year from Whisky Advocate magazine. It's an impressive award because the magazine is based in the US and surveys the entire world of whiskey. Its annual gongs are based on a year of tasting as many releases as possible on behalf of its readers. There is no self-nomination process for distillers, no money changing hands, no considerations other than merit. There are probably no more objective or informed awards in the business than the Whisky Advocate awards.

So, Midleton - home of Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Green Spot and others - is the Distillery of the Year. The citation from the magazine recaps the justifications very neatly so I won't repeat them. Suffice to say I agree wholeheartedly. 2011 was Irish Distillers' (IDL) year. A good one for the company, an even better one for fans of Irish whiskey thanks to their new Single Pot Still (SPS) programme.

The article finishes by referring to Whisky Advocate's Irish Whiskey of the Year, Redbreast 12 year old Cask Strength, announced a few days earlier. It was only one of several remarkable new whiskeys from Irish Disillers during the year so I'm going to gently disagree and nominate the Powers John's Lane Release instead. The author of the Whiskey Bible, Jim Murray, also chose the Powers as the top Irish sup of 2011.

We have plenty more to look forward to from Midleton since they have committed to new SPS releases every year. There is also a very important anniversary coming up for them. I saw this photo illustrating an article in the Sunday Business Post in January. It was uncaptioned and the article never referred to it but it shows Barry Crockett, Master Distiller, beside a cask "reserved for 2030".

Barry Crockett / photo from the Sunday Business Post

What's 2030? The 250th anniversary of the founding of the Jameson distillery in 1780. I'm sure IDL has already laid down in cask something good to give us in 2030 to celebrate. Let's hope we are all still around to taste it!

By the way, if you fancy making the stuff instead of just drinking it, and you want to work for the top distillery in the world, Irish distillers is looking for graduates for its training programme at the moment.

Saturday, 11 February 2012

Irish whiskey shorts

Win an Indigo & Cloth Edition Kilbeggan

You can win bottle 100/100 of the whiskey I wrote up yesterday if you buy an item of clothing in the Indigo & Cloth store over the weekend.


From our Boston correspondent

The Irish Whiskey Society of America ran a clever You don't know John tasting where each round pitched a (John) Jameson against a (John) Power, blind of course. The upshot:
Round 1: Jameson NAS v Powers NAS
Winner: Powers (almost an even split though) 
Round 2: Jameson 12yo v Powers 12yo
Winner: Powers (comfortably)
Round 3: Jameson Gold Reserve v Powers John's Lane Release
Winner: Powers (honourable mention for the Gold Reserve)
There was a bonus tasting of the hot-off-the-docks Jameson Select Reserve Black Barrel. This whiskey was well received and stole the Favourite of the Night vote.


The Gospel according to Alex

Cormac MacConnell has canonised Cooley's Alex Chasko for his Connemara Bog Oak (still not quite released). That has upped the ante considerably for complimentary blog reviews. Well, this blog will not be found wanting, so here goes: Alex Chasko is the Dr Dolittle of Yeast, the Picasso of the Pot Still, a Cask-Strength Kasparov!

But it's no exaggeration to say that Alex has the magic touch when it comes to creating great whiskeys. I think the secret is really understanding the whole process, from mash to maturation to blending, and lots and lots of experimentation. I happened to taste one of Alex's latest experiments this week. It's very unexpected and rather good, but I won't say any more about it until the rest of the Irish Whiskey Society has had a chance to try it.


Tweet Tasting

The Whisky Wire is holding a Cooley Tweet Tasting on March 7th. Anyone can follow along, and Noel Sweeney, Cooley's Master Blender, will be online too.


Irish whiskey sales in the US

The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States released data (pdf) on the US spirits market in 2011. Of the total whiskey market (Bourbon, Canadian, Scotch, etc), Irish whiskey had about 3.6% (by volume). Scotch had 18.8%. It looks like Irish is way behind but that represents a 23.6% improvement in a category that only rose 1.4% overall.

Some of that growth came, perhaps, at the expense of blended Scotch, which lost 202,000 cases in sales compared with a 327,000 case increase for Irish.

One other point of interest is that Irish sales only include "High End Premium" and "Super Premium" whiskeys, with no contribution at the "Value" and "Premium" levels which account for about 63% of Scotch sales by volume. "High End Premium" includes Jameson, which I'd regard as an entry-level (though very good) whiskey in Ireland. We really don't make poor whiskey. (OK, I've had one or two.)

I'll have to try a VAT 69 or Passport Scotch to see what a "Value" whiskey tastes like.


Whiskey saves the planet

An Irish researcher has figured out how to turn the waste products of whiskey-making into biofuel. If I'm understanding this right then, the more whiskey we drink, the sooner we solve the climate change problem. (These "waste" products don't really go to waste though. The draff is used for animal feed.)


Baroque DJ

This week, something bizarre happened: I heard some good harpsichord music! The classical stations are way too fond of baroque chamber music, and that soulless instrument in particular. But, it turns out, you can eke some feeling out of the darn things after all. Les Tendre Sentiments by Joseph-Nicolas-Pancrace Royer on Lyric FM's John Kelly Ensemble caught my ear and, long story short, I ended up buying the whole album on iTunes. Here's a different piece by the same dude:


Thursday, 9 February 2012

Kilbeggan Indigo & Cloth Edition

If you were tasked with taking an unbranded bottle of Kilbeggan Irish whiskey and whipping up a label for it, where would you begin? I might take a cue from the unusual art deco styling of the bottle and mash it up with those cool Age of Speed train and ship posters from the 1930s. The result would look like a prop from Poirot and quite unlike any old whiskey bottle I've ever seen but I'd claim it was a tribute to the great copper pot stills of a distillery just like those old travel ads celebrated the raw power of steam boilers.

Maybe it's obvious why I've never been asked to design a whiskey label but I recently met someone who has done just that: Garrett Pitcher of Thread magazine and fashion store and creative agency, Indigo & Cloth on Dublin's South William Street. Let's ponder the result:
"Indigo & Cloth" label on the left
The whiskey-spotters will want to know up-front that there were exactly 100 of these numbered bottles produced. And see that "No. 1" front and centre? That's a hopeful nod towards possible future bottlings.

In comparison with the standard label, the colour and the shiny have been binned, and the trademark elements stripped of ornament. I'm told the typography harks back to old Irish whiskey labels, though I don't know what the particular references were (any ideas?).

For me, the closer you can get to the utilitarian, unshowy label on, say, a warehouse shelf, the better. It seems to say "this whiskey can speak for itself" or "there will only ever be 200 bottles of this; not worth waking up the marketing department for". Here are a few Japanese examples I like.

Garrett's career has intersected with both Irish Distillers and Diageo but it was a personal connection to the Teeling family, owners of Cooley Distillery until last month, that led to this collaboration. It remains to be seen where the new owner, Beam, stands on such experiments.


Indigo & Cloth

I am struggling to think of another company with the business model of Indigo & Cloth. It is both a creative consultancy with particular values, and a fashion store that embodies those values. I know startups that bootstrap their business by taking on consulting work and then ease out of it as product revenue grows. But for Garrett the dual nature of the business is the point. It is symbiotic, and it's not going to change.

It may surprise those who have met me (not!) that I don't spend much time in clothes shops. But I can readily appreciate Indigo & Cloth's approach. Their racks are painstakingly curated, stocked during frequent trips to Europe. Sometimes the labels will be buzzing somewhere abroad but haven't reached this country yet (Brown Thomas can't stock everything), sometimes the clothing will come from an upcoming designer. There might only be six pieces of any one item procured and when they are gone, they are gone.

In a real sense, the shop I visited a couple of weeks ago is no more. Not only has it been restocked with new lines, the shop itself has been revamped through the magic of carpentry. Regular reinvention preserves the excitement of the new and unexpected.

If you start to think that this is taking dress very seriously, think "bottle of whiskey" instead of "article of clothing" and you'll be on familiar ground!


Collaboration

Collaboration is the secret sauce behind Garret's various endeavours. In the shop, for example, he sourced tweed from a Donegal weaver, spec'd out a jacket, and found a tailor (in Kilkenny, if memory serves) to make them up. That kind of relationship with suppliers and makers extends to customers too, of course. The manufacturing process can be tweaked individually for a more bespoke result.

The Kilbeggan whiskey was a collaboration too. It wasn't a commercial venture on either side, just "let's try something together and we'll see where it leads".

Garrett and I crossed South William Street to Clement & Pekoe, a tea shop and café. I got a strong sense of the community of business owners and talented individuals working in that part of town. They all seem to know and support each other. Indeed, they are working together to improve and confer an identity upon South William Street and thereabouts. More opportunities for collaboration, this time thanks to proximity.

Clement & Pekoe, by the way, is my new favourite spot for a cuppa. You can select from a huge range of loose teas and the coffee is up to scratch too, I hear. The Bretzel Bakery supplies the muffins.


Craft

We never really developed an appreciation for craft in Ireland. We had plenty of it but let it go without much in the way of regret. The famed Hands series on RTÉ is at least 30 years old and it recorded what were pretty much the last practitioners of their various traditional crafts.

It was living in countries with a deep-rooted pride in their own traditions, like Japan and Sweden, that propelled me into finding something - anything - that represented continued Irish skill and excellence today. I latched onto whiskey. It provides, I believe, an existence proof that we can still produce something great and distinctive in Ireland. We need to recognise such examples and apply their model to everything we do.

The whiskey drinker's appreciation for craft and heritage is shared by Indigo & Cloth. Have a look at this beautiful video on the weaving of the Donegal tweed I mentioned earlier. That video, in fact, is how I first chanced across Indigo & Cloth. When I saw the name crop up again in connection with whiskey I spotted the craft subtext immediately.


Locality

Indigo & Cloth aims to know not just the designers of its products but the makers too. That's a lot more convenient if it's made in Europe or the UK, rather than Asia.

If it can be sourced in Ireland, even better. We still make knitwear in this country, for example, so if the design and quality is there, perhaps we don't have to look further. Connecting up a tight feedback loop between customer, retailer, designer and manufacturer can only lead to more innovative and rewarding products.

And, of course, there is the economic benefit of keeping money sloshing around in the same community. Lifts all boats, etc. I've always thought that was a good reason for choosing Irish whiskey over, say, an imported vodka or beer. It's becoming a choice much easier to make these days with all the great craft beers and Irish whiskeys coming to market. Same for our wonderful edible produce.


Individuality

I'll finish with a quotation from G.H. Hardy I saw on a blackboard in Indigo & Cloth:
It is not worth an intelligent man's time to be in the majority. By definition, there are already enough people to do that.
When clothing outlets are quoting mathematicians, it's clearly time for me to get back in the style game!

I mentioned earlier that Indigo & Cloth is both a shop and a creative agency. I don't feel I've done this unusual company justice at all in capturing its values and ideas but if I was in business and looking for a collaborator to explore and stake out new and original territory, these are the guys I'd talk to first.